A New Market Experience

              Today was a different experience for me. After being in Jamaica for four months and being invited out several times by my good friend, legendary Vincentian broadcaster, Pam Barbour ( or Ms. B as I like to call her), I decided to make the trip to downtown, more specifically, to Coronation market, located in the heart of Tivoli Gardens. Tivoli was the same area where the "Don" Christopher 'Dudus' Coke was reputed to have controlled before his extradition. Granted that this was the same place where all the horror stories of pick-pockets and other crimes are reputed to be the norm. So to say I was the least bit frighten was just the tip of the iceberg. However I decided that I still wanted to see that side of Jamaica and took the journey.
          It was a beautiful Saturday morning. The skies were just a bit overcast but the sun was still shining. We departed at 6:30 am for our destination and only stopping to collect the friend of Ms. B. As we made the drive the place transformed from the new office buildings and high rises to which I was accustomed to the old architecture common in older sections of towns. The old English and Spanish style buildings were dilapidated and run down yet they gave a rustic feel and added a Caribbean dimension where you saw the true reality of contrasts in life in the Caribbean. As we arrived the first thing that struck me was that we were in downtown renowned for its dreadful reputation, yet there were people of every walk of life (upper and lower class or as Jamaicans say uptown and downtown people) were going about their Saturday shopping routine as normal.
          A most interesting point was that persons brought their own bags to the market or bought them on arrival. These bags made from  the sacks used to import grain and other materials were very well crafted. This is a plus as they are re-usable, providing and opportunity to conserve and not buy and overuse black plastic bags (also known in Jamaica as scandal bags.).

          The market was just an array of sights and sounds. The first thing that appealed was the colours. There was wide variety from the brown of the ground provisions to the purple of the red onions and the differing colours of the peppers, my eyes were just drawn in and my attention was kept by just the sights. The produce was fresh. There was every type of fruit and vegetable available for sale there. From the Jack fruit to the Jamaican Star apple, there was a wide assortment of colours and prices. Interestingly almost all produce is sold by the weight and the prices are quite reasonable in comparison to shopping in supermarkets.
      The sounds of the market were so interesting. If getting a feel for the Jamaican patois is what one is looking for , this is the place to go. The mix of accents from the different parishes within Jamaica is undeniably present. The use of the colloquial is quite common and makes for good humor especially when one hardly understand what is said or realizes that he or she is the butt of the joke. I was provided by the entertaining peddlers of wares who walked around the markets shouting while selling different small items such as pimentos, spices and even tiger balm! This gives a feel for a Jamaica which cannot be experienced outside of this setting.
       The vendors in the market come from different parts of the island and yet there is one common quality about them: their friendly customer service. Its interesting to see the way they interact with their customers. It is as if two old friends were meeting to chat. While the transaction is being conducted, conversation varies from what is good this week to the  kids and grandkids and even the ongoing Manatt inquiry. It was interesting that the vendors knew the names of their customers as well as the customers the specific vendors. Its  how they were able to talk about Mr. Bogle or Ms. Marcel.

      One interesting point for me was the carts used in the market. These "mini cars" come equipped with steering and brakes and are a sight to behold as their drivers maneuver them through the tiny corridors within the markets. The drivers age in range from young to aged men yet one can see that it takes some skill to drive these carts around.

       After one hour in the market I had all I needed  and for an extremely reasonable price. From my vegetables to make salad to a piece of yellow yam to cook, I left with my bag full and extremely satisfied about what I had to nourish my body with for the rest of the week. Interestingly I met a lady selling guavas and could not resist the urge to buy. Although at home I just have to go to my sister's home for guavas and never buy, here I am not so privileged here. It turns out it was a good buy as they were both sweet and firm making them excellent for eating.
      It was a great experience for me at the market. It was not only eye opening to the culture of the Jamaica and seeing the different foods they offer, it shows that one can never be too quick to judge from hear say. Would I go down town again? Yes. Its all about being cautious yet going with a brave heart and an open mind, seeing the sights, taking in the culture and all that while getting great bargains. I will be going back to the market in two weeks with Ms. B because opportunities like these are not to be missed!